The Valley of the Moon, Jordan

March 2016

As a cold desert wind swept through our camp, hundreds of little fire sparks jumped into the air, performing a swirling dance of light against the dark night sky. I was enraptured by it for a moment and time seemed to stand still as the red sands of Wadi Rum settled around me.

Bedouins, Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum is home to the Zalabia Bedouin, many of whom now run eco-adventure tourism initiatives guiding people through the desert

“Would you like some more tea?” Mohammed asked, as he lifted the blackened pot from the flames. I nodded eagerly, marvelling at how he expertly poured the tea from an alarming height and it cascaded perfectly into my small glass cup below. It was warm and sweet and minty, a perfect contrast to the crisp air around us.

“I grew up in this desert,” said Mohammed. “I know every rock and pathway and I know where the sand blows. My father and I used to take herds of camels into Saudi Arabia. It would take us months to cross the desert and we would sleep outside and hunt along the way. Those were my favourite times. It is so quiet in the desert, so peaceful, and everything we need is here. Life is simple.”

We had been talking for a while, Mohammed and I, sharing our spot by the fire. He was a young Bedouin tour-guide, caretaker of this small eco-camp, and we had spent the day in the back of an old Land Cruiser, exploring the exotic lands of Wadi Rum – the Valley of the Moon.

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It’s other-worldly feel has made Wadi Rum the location of numerous films

There is no question about how the land got its name. As a large valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan, Wadi Rum is otherworldly; great expanses of red sand stretching around and between stark mountains, lone camels wandering in the distance, ancient inscriptions telling the tales of civilisations long forgotten, and bursts of life where it otherwise seemed impossible. We spent the day surfing down sand dunes, climbing to the highest peaks of rocky outcrops and watching the sun set over the expansive horizon.

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Dune surfing down the red sand dune of Wadi Rum

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Viewing the world from on top of the mountain

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The Rock Bridge of Um Fruth, a naturally formed bridge more than 15m above the ground

Mohammed was right, there was a magical simplicity to being in the desert. Somehow life felt calmer, the air was fresh and there was space to think, and there were no distractions from the important things in life. All that seemed to matter were stories, shared in broken languages that echoed the truths of life, and told beneath the starry night sky over cups of steaming sweet tea.

If you are travelling to Jordan, I would highly recommend booking a trip through Petra Night Tours – they offer a range of interesting adventures through a truly beautiful country.

VIEW GALLERY
As the adventure into Wadi Rum begins, a sturdy jeep becomes our new mode of transport.
As the adventure into Wadi Rum begins, a sturdy jeep becomes our new mode of transport.
The Bedouin guides enjoy a cup of tea in the desert.
The Bedouin guides enjoy a cup of tea in the desert.
Three Bedouin guides prepare hot tea in the setting sun.
Three Bedouin guides prepare hot tea in the setting sun.
Wadi Rum is home to the Zalabia Bedouin, many of whom now run eco-adventure tourism initiatives, guiding people through the desert.
Wadi Rum is home to the Zalabia Bedouin, many of whom now run eco-adventure tourism initiatives, guiding people through the desert.
Our guide, Eid, nimbly climbs across the rocks.
Our guide, Eid, nimbly climbs across the rocks.
The simple heat from the fire is a welcome relief from the chilly temperatures as the sun begins to set.
The simple heat from the fire is a welcome relief from the chilly temperatures as the sun begins to set.
As the sun begins to set, a Bedouin guide lights a small fire to make tea for his travelling companions.
As the sun begins to set, a Bedouin guide lights a small fire to make tea for his travelling companions.
The Rock Bridge of Um Fruth, a naturally formed bridge more than 15m above the ground.
The Rock Bridge of Um Fruth, a naturally formed bridge more than 15m above the ground.
A web of trails lead in and out of the sandstone canyons, ancient pathways and resting places from centuries gone past.
A web of trails lead in and out of the sandstone canyons, ancient pathways and resting places from centuries gone past.
It's other-worldly feel has made Wadi Rum the location of numerous films including Lawrence of Arabia and the Martian.
It’s other-worldly feel has made Wadi Rum the location of numerous films including Lawrence of Arabia and the Martian.
The half moon peeks out from behind the mountains.
The half moon peeks out from behind the mountains.
The sandstone walls are pocketed with what look like tiny desert-fairy homes carved into the mountain.
The sandstone walls are pocketed with what look like tiny desert-fairy homes carved into the mountain.
Located in the southern part of Jordan, Wadi Rum is one of the largest wadi's (valley) in the country and is known for its immense sandstone and granite outcrops.
Located in the southern part of Jordan, Wadi Rum is one of the largest wadi’s (valley) in the country and is known for its immense sandstone and granite outcrops.
A seemingly happy camel blends in seamlessly with the dusty environment around it.
A seemingly happy camel blends in seamlessly with the dusty environment around it.
A camel walks across the desert sands in Wadi Rum - the Valley of the Moon.
A camel walks across the desert sands in Wadi Rum – the Valley of the Moon.
Dune surfing down the red sand dune of Wadi Rum
Dune surfing down the red sand dune of Wadi Rum
Viewing the world from on top of the mountain
Viewing the world from on top of the mountain

 

 

 

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